Marc Jacobs channels the best of Disco, set to give us all a fever next Spring/Summer
Marc Jacobs took his audience on a stunning trip down memory lane in his Spring/Summer 2011 show. But where did this jaunt take them exactly? Back to the world of big hair, jumpsuits and kaftans, when Studio 54 was the only place to see and be seen. Yes, the Seventies are back, and this time they’re more dazzling and alluring than ever.
In the heart of New York’s Lexington Armory, a posse of models emerged from a gigantic gleaming gold sphere to the tune of “Summer” from Vivaldi’s “The Four Seasons”. It was instantly obvious that this collection is a celebration of colour and luxury, but predominantly a tribute to the past. And with outstanding tones of orange, gold, muted pink, coral and mauve, it is definitely an energized deviation from his last Autumn/Winter line where he showed gentle shades of grey, brown, beige and black.
Opening the show was tenderfoot Luisa Bianchin, who sashayed to the beat sporting a vivid orange full bell-sleeve Eastern-inspired print coat. Adorning her brushed-out frizzy strawberry blonde hair was a huge crimson fabric hibiscus, giving the look that all-important injection of charm and fun.
Voluminous off-the-shoulder peasant blouses with ample A-line skirts in violet and red were followed by oversized safari jackets, plum, cinnamon and copper flowing dirndl skirts and sequin embellished kaftan-inspired dresses. The star pieces were the satin high-waisted trousers in hues of burnt orange, pale pink and glowing cerise. Perhaps most daring were the gold lamé hot pants and retro jumpsuits with deep V’s and slits up the thigh almost revealing the model’s undergarments. It was clear that modesty was not at the forefront of the designer’s mind this season.
Nostalgically Jacobs channelled Missoni through his zigzag coral, yellow and orange knitted dresses, whilst his enormous straw hats in shades of fuchsia, yellow and plum were the perfect ode to Jodie Foster in Taxi Driver circa 1976.
The designer also championed glamorous seduction through his lustrous choice of fabric. A mix of double-face voile, etamine, gauze and silk, ornamented with giant silk hibiscus and orchid flowers at the neck and waist, ensured that this collection evoked opulence and radiance.
Think of Jerry Hall vacationing in Saint Tropez or Faye Dunaway’s famous March 1977 post-Oscar breakfast photograph. Both conjure visions of effortless elegance and blasé wealth. Even Yves Saint Laurent’s Ballet Russes collection from 1976, with its billowing and luxuriant fabric, seemed to be referenced in this collection.
It was not only Mr Jacobs who channelled the era of debauched hedonism - not forgetting disco - for Spring/Summer 2011. Salvatore Ferragamo presented hippy luxe mixed with the sleekest YSL inspirations through a delicate palette of chiffon blouses and masculine tailoring.
But it was the Marc Jacobs collection that truly stood above the rest. His attention to detail, striking use of colour and understanding of what was truly thrilling about the era is what makes Mr Jacobs the king of the disco.