Gareth Pugh has always confessed to feeling much more at home showing in Paris than in his native London, and his Autumn/Winter 2012-13 show was no exception.
Taking place in a car park setting in Rue de Turenne, the show began typically with just the right amount of excitement. In a display which some argued rivalled Burberry’s ‘rainy day in London’ moment, grey leaves fell from above, lowered to the floor and the catwalk was transformed by texture. Then came the models…
Shaggy would be the word to best describe this collection. From coats to dresses, the catwalk was awash with furry pieces. Some all black, with one ornamented by a Luna-like headpiece. The rest were accompanied by black and translucent headbands, whilst the abundant fringing created just the right amount of juxtaposition. Ragged leather hung like drapes on black jackets, whilst tent-like coats were toughened up with leather piping and shoulders which were swathed in fur. Built in restraints featured on the pockets and oversized bat-wing collars made the looks all the more striking.
The overall look was somewhat Amazonian Warrior, Aztec and, with thanks to the all over furred gloves, even yeti inspired. The harness-like headpieces and leather muzzles gave it an added bondage element whilst the silhouette was almost indefinable. From large and cumbersome to contoured and defined, the looks were bold, audacious even. Primitive, earthy, dark and moody, but with a decidedly softened and more wearable edge, there was a distinctive departure from his nonsensically shaped, wearable sculptures of seasons past. Pugh continues to create the architectural aesthetic he knows best, and one which showcases the dark side of beauty with marvellous ease.
Original published source: Velour Magazine http://www.velourmagazine.com/fashion/gareth-pughs-dark-knights/